A Chef's Return Gives Oaxaca Barcelona a New Soul

Barcelona's Oaxaca restaurant has entered a new chapter with the return of chef Joan Begur, who spent an extended period travelling and working in Mexico. Now firmly back in the kitchen, Begur has considerably raised the gastronomic level of the establishment, moving it closer to the pure, regional Mexican cooking he champions.

Unlike other notable Mexican-influenced concepts in the city that have offered creative or Mediterranean twists, Oaxaca under Begur aims squarely at fidelity to the flavours you would find across Mexico's states. His recent immersion has not only refined the menu but also introduced an extensive collection of mezcals — some produced under his own supervision — making the restaurant a compelling destination for those seeking an unadulterated taste of the country.

How Joan Begur Is Redefining Mexican Dining in the City

Beyond Creative Mexican: Oaxaca's Regional Focus

The past decade in Barcelona saw chefs like Paco Méndez (at now-closed Hoja Santa and earlier at Niño Viejo) reimagine Mexican cuisine through a polished, creative lens. Joan Begur takes a different path: his cooking is deliberately faithful to the diverse traditions of Oaxaca, Puebla, Yucatán and beyond, without Mediterranean reinterpretation. His return fills a gap for diners who want to eat in Barcelona as they would in Mexico City or a small-town market — a niche that had been underserved while Begur was away honing his craft.

Mezcal, Margaritas and the People Who Make It Work

The restaurant's deep mezcal list is more than a beverage programme; it is an education. Begur has sourced bottles that reflect the spirit's terroir and artisanal production, some made to his own specifications. Navigating that list requires guidance, and the front-of-house team delivers it with warmth and skill. Head of service Teresa is praised for genuinely putting guests' comfort first, while bartenders Nacho (who goes by his preferred name over his given Eduardo) and Jonathan craft margaritas — the spicy version comes highly recommended — that alone justify a stop at the bar before dinner.

4 Ways to Get the Most Out of Oaxaca Barcelona Right Now

  • Start at the bar with a margarita: the classic from Nacho and the spicy from Jonathan are both worth ordering, setting a festive tone before you move to the dining room.
  • When Joan Begur is in the kitchen, ask him to prepare a tasting of small versions of his dishes. This lets you sample a broader range than a standard three-course order.
  • Don't skip the larger-format plates. The jarrete de cerdo (pork shank) taco is a standout that delivers a flavour punch you won't forget.
  • Let the staff guide you through the mezcal list. Request a flight to compare different regions and styles — especially the bottles produced under Begur's instruction — for the fullest experience.