A Stone’s Throw from Oia But a World Apart

Formed by the same volcanic eruption that sculpted Santorini 3,600 years ago, the island of Therasia sits conspicuously in the caldera — yet barely 168 people call it home, and only a handful of the millions who photograph it ever set foot there. That is beginning to change. A new online ferry timetable now replaces the old hit-and-miss service, and a smattering of tourism offerings have sprung up, including an automated petrol pump and, most notably, a boutique retreat.

Santa Irini Retreat opened in 2024 on ancestral land, offering four suites with handwoven fabrics and driftwood details. Its namesake chapel is the original “Santa Irini” that gave Santorini its name, shouted by sailors upon safely sighting it. Across the 5.5-mile-long island, 23 other churches dot the landscape, alongside a newly built winery, farm-to-table restaurants and walking trails through abandoned cave-house settlements.

What Makes This Greek Outpost Worth the Detour

Santa Irini Retreat and the Return of Philotimo

Run by the Savvidis-Kriezis couple, the retreat embodies traditional Cycladic architecture with a modern touch. Four house-like suites, a pool overlooking the caldera and gardens of fig trees create an atmosphere designed to slow guests down. Its proximity to the main Riva port makes it the island’s highest-profile accommodation, yet the lack of crowds ensures the experience remains intimate.

A Volcanic Terroir and Farm-to-Fork Flavours

Mikra Thira winery, housed in an ultra-modern building near Potamos, produces Assyrtiko wines from vines grown in the traditional wreath-like baskets that protect grapes from the Meltemi winds. A 90-minute tour includes tastings at the cellar door. For dining, Fyrgano restaurant in Manolas village serves produce from the owner’s garden, while Panorama Resto offers higher-end dishes like baby calamari moussaka with sea fennel. Together they signal a slow-food scene that rewards the climb up the island’s 280 steps.

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Active Exploration and a Ghost Settlement

Explore Thirasia, founded by cyclist Yannis Daskalakis, leads hiking, mountain bike and e-bike excursions. A highlight is the abandoned settlement of Agrilia, once an agricultural community of up to 700 people that collapsed after tomato-paste factories closed and a 1956 earthquake struck. Walks pass windmills, Minoan relics and the unexpectedly colourful “Mexican Church,” revealing a layer of history absent from the Santorini postcard.

Planning Your Visit to Therasia

  • Ferry connections: A 10-minute sea bus runs three times daily from Ammoudi Bay to Riva Port. A larger ferry from Athinios Port departs daily at 3:30pm (except Sundays). Check the online schedule before travel.
  • Accommodation: Santa Irini Retreat operates May–October; doubles from €280 B&B. The property can arrange private boat or helicopter transfers.
  • Getting around: The island has one taxi. Visitors can bring a car on the Athinios ferry, rent an e-bike from Explore Thirasia, or simply walk — most sites are accessible on foot.
  • Wine and dine: Book a tasting at Mikra Thira winery near Potamos. Reserve at Fyrgano or Panorama Resto in Manolas for locally sourced meals with caldera views.
  • Walking tours: Explore Thirasia’s morning or sunset hikes take in the Agrilia gorge settlement and hidden churches; e-bike rentals are also available.