Fashion for Good Launches Benchmarking Project for PFAS-Free Textile Finishes

Inside Project DW(O)R-X: Benchmarking PFAS-Free Finishes for Fashion

Amsterdam-based sustainability platform Fashion for Good has launched Project DW(O)R-X, a multi-stakeholder initiative to benchmark durable water- and oil-repellent (DWOR) finishes that do not rely on per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). Nine alternative chemistries—ranging from early-stage concepts to commercially available solutions—will be evaluated across three dimensions: functional performance, environmental and health impact, and cost.

PFAS have long been the go-to for performance finishes in sportswear and outerwear because they deliver unmatched oil repellency and durability. However, growing concerns over their persistence in the environment and potential health risks are pushing the apparel industry to find replacements. Brands like Adidas and C&A, both participating in the project, have already eliminated intentional PFAS use in their own products, but scaling reliable alternatives across the entire value chain remains a challenge.

The project aims to fill a critical data gap. Currently, there is no unified testing protocol that reflects real-world conditions—ordinary lab tests often miss how finishes hold up against sweat, sunscreen, or soil. Project DW(O)R-X has developed a performance framework that incorporates multi-condition testing and bespoke stains relevant to actual use. SGS, the testing and inspection giant, will carry out the performance assessments, while partners across the supply chain—including chemical suppliers like Archroma, Rudolf, and Dow, and manufacturers such as Shahi Exports and Paradise Textiles—will contribute their expertise.

Katrin Ley, managing director of Fashion for Good, stated: “The challenge for the whole industry isn’t just phasing out PFAS: it’s ensuring we don’t replace it with something equally concerning that we understand less well.” The results, expected after the project cycle, are intended to become a shared reference that brands, mills, and chemical companies can use to substantiate claims and guide R&D.

What the Benchmark Means for the Apparel Supply Chain

Why the Benchmark Matters for Brands and Mills

For apparel brands under mounting regulatory and consumer pressure to eliminate PFAS, the current lack of standardised comparison data makes sourcing a guessing game. A mill might offer a “PFAS-free” finish, but without independent verification against meaningful wear conditions, a brand cannot be sure it will satisfy a customer who expects a rain jacket that remains oil-repellent after a day’s hike. The project’s framework explicitly addresses this by testing with sweat, sunscreen, and soil—common real-world stressors. If it delivers robust, transparent data, it could remove a major barrier to adoption, accelerating the industry-wide phase-out.

The Challenge of True PFAS Alternatives

One of the most delicate risks flagged by the initiative is regrettable substitution. Several early alternatives to PFAS have faced criticism because they used shorter-chain fluorocarbons that, while perhaps less bioaccumulative, could still persist in nature. The project’s environmental impact assessment is designed to catch such issues early, giving manufacturers and brands a clearer picture of the safety profile, not just the repellency score. This holistic approach could raise the bar for all chemical developers and prevent a repeat of the cycle where one problematic chemistry replaces another.

Collaboration Across the Value Chain

The roster of participants—from chemical giants like Daikin and Dow to niche innovators like Dryfiber and vandeyk.tech—reflects the reality that no single company can solve the PFAS problem alone. The project pools knowledge from the lab bench to the factory floor. For instance, manufacturers like Shahi Exports, which produce garments for global brands, will be able to see how alternatives perform in actual production settings. This type of pre-competitive collaboration is increasingly common in sustainability-driven transitions, and if the benchmark proves credible, it could become a template for other performance-chemical challenges in textiles.

Next Steps for Brands, Mills, and Chemical Suppliers

For executives and procurement teams in apparel, the project offers a near-term reference point that can inform supplier conversations. While the full dataset is not yet available, the following steps are concrete and grounded in the initiative’s design:

• Request the Project DW(O)R-X framework as a basis for internal discussions. When a chemical supplier or mill claims a PFAS-free finish, use the project’s multi-condition testing approach—including stains like sweat and sunscreen—as a model for what evidence you should demand.
• Prepare your supplier scorecards now. Brands that start mapping their current finishes against the expected benchmark categories (performance, cost, environmental impact) will be faster to pivot once the data is released. Early engagement with mills that are already part of the project, such as those in the Shahi network, can create a head start.
• Chemical companies should align R&D with the framework. Innovators whose solutions do not yet match the durability of PFAS can use the project’s testing protocol to identify precisely where they fall short—whether in oil repellency after washing or resistance to body oils—and direct their development efforts accordingly.
• Investors and rating agencies should note which firms participate. Companies that contribute to shared safety benchmarks demonstrate a proactive approach to chemical management, which can be a positive signal in ESG assessments. Conversely, those that remain on the sidelines risk being locked out of future procurement conversations that rely on this common reference.